Saint Laurent: Anthony Vaccarello's Meditation on Absence

Anthony Vaccarello's Spring/Summer 2027 menswear for Saint Laurent was staged inside the Tadao Ando-designed rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce, backdropped by Fujiko Nakaya's fog sculpture Cloud.

A work the exhibition catalogue described as sculpted rather than merely depicted. The clothes matched the mood: featherweight knits, shrunken waistcoats, classic men's underwear reimagined in leather, and austere, expertly cut suiting finished with small, deliberate flourishes like a gold sunflower button or shiny olive-toned PVC oxfords. If the collection read as a study in restraint, that was the point critics called it 'a meditation on the luxury of absence' in a season otherwise crowded with spectacle.