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Ralph Lauren faces criticism over Zardozi-inspired SS27 design
An embellished gown triggered renewed discussion about recognition of Indian embroidery traditions in global fashion.

Ralph Lauren has faced criticism in India after a Spring/Summer 2027 design was described by the brand as featuring “hand-applied embellishments.”
Fashion commentators and social-media users compared the detailed embroidery with Zardozi, a traditional South Asian technique known for ornate metallic threadwork.
The controversy focuses on attribution rather than simply the use of a visual idea. Critics argue that a description identifying the cultural technique or craft tradition would provide important context. The discussion also connects with previous debates involving South Asian design elements used by international brands.
For the global fashion industry, the issue highlights a growing expectation that heritage techniques should be accompanied by clearer information about their origins, makers and collaborators. The response to the Ralph Lauren design also shows how product descriptions and digital storytelling have become part of the cultural responsibility of luxury brands, especially when traditional techniques are translated into high-value international products.

About the author
Yuna Liu
Fashion editor and writer covering design, image-making and the creative networks connecting Southeast Asia.


