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PATEK PHILIPPE'S NEWEST WATCH HAS A FOX AND A CROW TELLING TIME

The 5249R-001 is the brand's first modern automaton wristwatch, inspired by a 1958 museum piece.

By Jing Yi Tan29 april 20264 min read
PATEK PHILIPPE'S NEWEST WATCH HAS A FOX AND A CROW TELLING TIME

Among Patek Philippe's twenty new references unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the 5249R-001 stood out for reviving a mechanical tradition the brand hadn't attempted on a modern wristwatch: it's Patek's first automaton wristwatch in modern history, directly inspired by a 1958 museum piece from the house's own archive.

Rather than displaying time continuously, the watch keeps it deliberately hidden until requested: pressing a pusher brings the dial to life in what amounts to a small mechanical theatre, with a fox indicating the hours and a crow dropping the minutes - a whimsical, almost storybook mechanism executed with the kind of precision more typically associated with Patek's grand complications than its playful pieces. The dial surrounding the animation is crafted from layers of engraved gold requiring well over 100 hours of dedicated handwork, reflecting the same craft intensity the brand brings to its considerably more overtly serious complicated pieces.

The watch is cased in 43mm of 18-karat rose gold on a brown alligator strap, powered by the in-house Caliber 31-260 PS HMD AU, with 30 metres of water resistance - specifications that place it squarely as a dress watch built for its mechanical storytelling rather than everyday utility.

For a house whose 2026 collection was broadly described by reviewers as "a carefully crafted refinement" rather than a dramatic reset, a genuinely playful, archive-inspired automaton stood out precisely because it let Patek demonstrate rare handcraft skill within a lighthearted concept - proof the house's technical seriousness doesn't have to come at the expense of genuine charm.

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Portrait of fashion writer Mei Lin Tan

About the author

Jing Yi Tan

Fashion editor and writer covering design, image-making and the creative networks connecting Southeast Asia.

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